“La Dominante”, “La Serenissima”, “City of Masks”, “City of Bridges”, and “The Floating City” are a few of the names given Venice over the centuries. A refuge that became a city of dreams, she was built from group of 118 islands linked by 438 bridges that cross the Grand Canal and the lesser canals that weave land and water together.
Before there was a city, the islands, the marshy lagoon were home to fishermen. But with the fall of Rome and the endless Germanic and Hun invasions, refugees fled to the safety of these islands because the shallow waters of the lagoon were treacherous to those who did not know their pitfalls. And as the European world grew in strength again, Venice grew as a city, becoming a Republic (a very select Republic), and an unusually stable city state amid the chaos surrounding it. Venice was one of, perhaps, the greatest Medieval power because of its unrivaled access to trade with the Byzantine empire. It celebrated its maritime and financial prowess until the 16th century, when growing conflicts and the opening of new trade routes ended its supremacy.
Canaletto was one of Venice’s most renowned artists, particularly for his intricate views of the city. Here he showcases a view of the Ducal palace.
Here is Canaletto’s entrance to the Grand Canal. Santa Maria della Salute was built in gratitude for those spared from the devastating attacks of the plague in 1630. The church perches on the tip of an island. To the left lies the wide Giudecca Canal and Giudecca island, a more working class neighborhood.
In the era when Venice ruled the Adriatic, it would awe visiting dignitaries by taking them to the Arsenale. There an entire warship would be constructed in one day. One day. The Venetians had the process perfected. Its labor force was specialized in a production line employing prefabricated parts. Its efficiency was not rivaled until the 20th century. It also produced weapons and needed supplies such as rope.
I love the unusual composition of this view of Venice.
When new trade routes opened, this great strength meant that, almost overnight, it became a has-been among nations it had nominated. Because of its beauty, it became a glorious tourist attraction instead. For centuries it celebrated Carnevale, often for much of the year. There were many traditional masks. Their meaning is part of a conversation in A Harmony of Hells.
Venice became symbolic for romance, decadence, and mystery. Glorious during the day, it became haunting, often sinister at night.
Celebration was endless.
Sometimes parties were held out on the lagoon.
Venice was relatively untouched by war until the French. For decades, she was occupied by the French and then the Austrians.
Napolean called the Piazza San Marco the drawing room of Europe.
Eventually, Venice was free and Italy officially a country. Life returned to normal, though Venice was quite poor for a time.
Bridge of Sighs
Rialto
But the beauty of Venice proved irresistible and tourists began to flock to the city. Writers like Henry James and Thomas Mann visited, as well as great artists, among them Turner, Monet, Manet, and John Singer Sargent.
Much of the old magic of Venice remains in the gondolas. Ride in one back into the side canals and slip back a century or more, sunlight and shadow flickering on the walls. Imagine what it was like when only oars and sails ruled the watery streets of the city. Here the gondoliers guide their boats under the Bridge of Sighs. Such a romantic name, but it was the pathway between the palace and the prisons.
You can still hang out
I first chose this casa for my characters trip to Venice. But the location wasn’t quite right. I found one similar with a better route to the Piazza San Marco and more bridges. It also has a little balcony and an attic.
There is a long gondola ride along the Grand Canal and weaving through the other, narrower canals.
It ends looking out at sunset over the lagoon, with memories of Baudelaire’s poem, Invitation au Voyage.
Banner images by Claude Monet.